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istanbul turkey
GEOGRAPHY
The summer months in Istanbul are generally hot and quite humid. The winters can
be cold and wet, although not as extreme as other areas of the country. June,
July and August see temperatures creep up to 30 degrees, with very little rain.
Spring and autumn are popular times to visit because of the comfortable climate,
good for lots of walking and sightseeing, with highs between 15 – 25 degrees C,
in April, May, September and October. By the winter, the dry cold air mass from
the Black Sea and cold damp front from the Balkans brings a chilly season with
daytime highs of between 10 – 15 degrees C, and nights much colder. Although
rarely falling to freezing point, there is the occasional light snow in the
city.
HISTORY
The city has been conquered, fought over and rebuilt many times over the
centuries. Istanbul’s history dates back to the first settlement possibly in the
13th Century BC, although was founded by Byzas the Megarian in the 7th Century
BC, from when the city was named Byzantium. A small colony of Greeks inhabited
the area until 3rd Century BC, and over the next 1000 years became a thriving
trading and commercial centre. Whilst continuing life as a trading city during
the Roman Empire, it was then conquered by Emperor Septimus Severius in 193 AD.
During the 4th century, Istanbul was selected by the Roman Empire to be the new
capital, instead of Rome, by Constantine. It was a strategic choice: Built on
seven surrounding hills – echoing that of Rome – the city would have control of
the Bosphorus and easy access to the harbour of the Golden Horn. The city was
re-organized within six years, its ramparts widened and the construction of many
temples, official buildings, palaces, hamams and hippodrome.
With great ceremony, in the year 330 the city was officially announced as the
capital of the Roman Empire, and known as Constantinople in the late eras. It
remained the capital of the eastern Roman Empire (Byzantine) for a long period,
due to the fall of the west Roman Empire in the 5th century. By the sixth
century, the population exceeded half a million, and was considered a golden age
under Emperor Justinyen’s reign.
The Byzantium Empire and Istanbul's latter history is full of palace and church
intrigues, was overrun by the Arabs in the 7th and 8th centuries, the Bulgars in
the 9th and 10th, but could not keep out the Crusaders who conquered in 1204.
They destroyed and raided it for many more years - including churches,
monasteries and monuments, which led to a decline in the population. The city
passed reign to Byzantium again in 1261, did not regain its former richness, and
was conquered by Turks in 1453 after a 53-day siege and the hands of control
changed yet again.
It then became the capital city of Ottoman Empire, which saw a population
increase with immigrants from other parts of the country, with religious freedom
and social rights granted to Greeks, Armenians and Jews. Mehmet the Conqueror
began to rebuild it, with a new palace and mosque (Fatih Camii) and tried to
inject new life into the economy.
The reign of Suleyman the Magnificent (1520-66) was considered the greatest of
all the Ottoman leaders, and the military conquests paid for the most impressive
Ottoman architecture, the work of Mimar Sinan. The city was also the centre of
the Islamic work, and domes and minarets from hundreds of mosques dotted the
skyline.
But a century after the death of Suleyman, the Empire started to decline again.
By the end of the 18th century the empire was in decline with more territory
being lost to the West, and sultans becoming more interested in Western
institutional models. There was a short-lived Ottoman parliament and
constitution in 1876, and by the end of the World War I during which allied
troops occupied the city, the once-great empire was in shambles.
This changed radically with the emergence of a prominent commander of the
Turkish army, who entered the struggle for the Turkish nation. Mustafa Kemal
Ataturk was considered a hero after the 4-year long War of Independence, after
which he established the Republic if
Turkey in 1932. Moving the capital to
Ankara, then a small provincial town in Anatolia, Istanbul was simply the
commercial and cultural centre, which it still remains today.
Where to Eat
The Istanbul kitchen is regarded as one of the best in the world. Ingredients,
chefs, styles and tastes came from every part of the Empire to the capital,
making the Ottoman Turkish kitchen significant in world cuisine. But Turkish
cuisine has not ceased to develop, and is growing and enhancing long after the
end of the Empire.
The typical dish of Istanbul would consist of lamb, mutton and veal, to which a
variety of vegetables are added. Pilaf, all kinds of pastry, bulgur, haricot
beans, rich olive oil and vegetables are used as side dishes. Meat balls, shish
kebab and doner kebab are the classic, most classic dishes found in any kebab
restaurant, together with peppers, yoghurt, eggplant. Because of its coastal
location, fish is also popular although is usually cooked simply, such as
grilled or fried with olive oil and lemon juice.
Like the rest of the country, the usual way of starting a big meal is with
mezzes, a selection of hot and cold dishes such as meat, fish, salads,
vegetables and cheese, shared amongst the table and eaten with fresh bread. To
finish your meal, pastry tarts, baklava, kadayif and a whole host of sweets are
available not only in restaurants, but in pastry shops which have often been
going for generations.
Because it is the commercial and cultural centre of
Turkey, there are
restaurants of many nationalities in Istanbul, like Korean, Russian, Italian and
Chinese. American-style fast-food outlets are becoming more popular, but for a
quick snack it is more appropriate to fill up at the plethora of tiny takeaways
with kebabs and snacks. It is easy to sample good quality regional cuisine in
typical small restaurants, usually at low cost, especially in the commercial and
business areas.
To wash down your meal,
Turkey’s most famous two drinks are milky-coloured –
although could not be more different: Ayran is a cooling, salty yoghurt drink
which is refreshing in summer and can be found everywhere, from street stalls to
restaurants. Raki, with the nick-name Lion’s Milk is a strong spirit with the
taste of Aniseed, which turns milky-white when mixed with water. It is usually
drunk to accompany food, especially at the beginning with mezzes. The main area
of beer and wine production is Anatolia.
Turkish coffee is legendary, usually served very sweet and strong and drunk from
tiny cups. It normally follows a meal, or is popular in cafes and offered when
visiting people or even sitting in carpet shops! The expression, “a cup of
coffee has a memory of 40 years”, has been repeated by Turks since the 16th
century.
For a meal out which is lively and entertaining, the taverns and fish
restaurants around Kumkapi, west of Sultanahmet, are great for outdoor dining
and street atmosphere, and very popular in the summer. People have been meeting
for years at Cicek Pasaji in Beyoglu for snacks and seafood specialities, and
nearby is the narrow Nevizade street, the best place in Istanbul for eating
Turkish specialties and drinking raki. On the Bosphorus, Ortakoy is another good
nightlife spot, with a good range of nightclubs, jazz clubs, fine seafood
restaurants and bars. At Eminönü don't miss an opportunity to see fishermen
dressed in traditional Ottoman clothes and their Ottoman-style boats cooking
delicious fried fish, whilst bobbing on the water around Eminonu.
WHAT TO BUY
Many people come to Istanbul for the shopping alone. The Kapali Carsisi, or
Covered Market, is the logical place to start as the area and variety is
immense. Still the commercial centre of the old city, the bazaar is the original
shopping “mall” with a vast selection of carpets, souvenirs, clothes, shoes,
jewellery and handicrafts made from ceramics, copper and brass. Many shops have
recently sprung up around Aksaray selling leather, suede and fur coats, catering
mainly for Russian and Eastern European buyers. The Misir Carsisi is good for
picking up spices, locum, flavoured teas and small souvenirs. (See section on
Bazaars.)
Sultanahmet has become another shopping mecca in the old city mainly because it
has the highest concentration of tourist attractions. The Istanbul Sanatlari
Carsisi (Bazaar of Istanbul Arts) in the 18th century Mehmet Efendi Medresesi,
and the nearby 16th-century Caferaga Medrese, built by Sinan, offer you the
chance to see craftsmen at work and to purchase their wares. In the Arasta (old
bazaar) of the Sultanahmet Mosque, a thriving shopping arcade selling carpets,
jewellery and local arts makes both shopping and sightseeing very convenient.
There are many carpet shops in this area, and the chances are that sooner or
later you will be approached by one of many dealers to visit his shop.
The sophisticated shops of in the Taksim and Nisantasi districts contrast with
the chaos of the bazaars. Istiklal Caddesi and Cumhuriyet Caddesi have shops
selling elegant fashionwear made from
Turkey's high quality textiles. Exquisite
jewellery, as well as finely designed handbags and shoes can also be found.
Nisantasi is the main area for clothes by top Turkish designers.
For an even more modern, European shopping experience, the huge new malls of the
Atakoy Galleria Mall in Atakoy, the Akmerkez Mall in Etiler and the Carousel
Mall in Bakirkoy have have European outlets, Turkish fashion shops, as well as
restaurants and a cinema. have branches of Istanbul's most elegant shops. In
Bakirkoy, the Carousel Mall is worth a visit, as is the Atlas Passage in
Beyoglu. Bahariye Avenue, Bagdat Avenue,and Capitol Mall on the Asian side,
offer the same shopping opportunities.
In Istanbul's busy flea markets there is an astonishing assortment of goods,
both old and new. There is a daily opportunity to poke about the Sahaflar
Carsisi and Cinaralti in the Beyazit areas. On Sundays, in a flea market between
the Sahaflar and the Covered Bazaar, vendors uncover their wares on carts and
blankets. The Horhor Carsisi is a collection of shops selling furniture of
varying age and quality. Flea markets are open daily in the Topkapi district, on
Cukurcuma Sokak in Cihangir, on Buyuk Hamam Sokak in Uskudar, in the Kadikoy
Carsi Duragi area, and between Eminonu and Tahtakale. After a Sunday drive up
the Bosphorus, stop between Buyukdere and Sariyer to wander through another
lively market.
ARTS, CULTURE and ENTERTAINMENT
İstanbul is an international art and cultural center. The International Arts and
Cultural Festival is held each year in June and July with famous artists coming
from all over the world. These performances are held mostly at the Atatürk
Cultural Center. The İstanbul Science Center (Bilim Merkezi), founded by the
Science Center Foundation and located on the campus of İstanbul Technical
University, has hands-on experimental and theoretical opportunities for adults
and children of various educational levels. In March and April you can lake in
the International Film Festival. Those who enjoy classical music can hear it at
the Cemal Reşit Rey Hall. Operas, operettas, ballets, films, concerts,
exhibitions and conferences all contribute to the cultural palette of the city.
İstanbul also has a rich program of light entertainment. Nightclubs provide
splendid entertainment throughout dinner, ranging from a selection of Turkish
songs to belly-dancing. Alongside these are modern discos, cabarets, and jazz
clubs in the Taksim-Harbiye district. In Sultanahmet, there are a number of
restaurants in restored Byzantine and Ottoman buildings which offer a unique
setting for an evening out.
Kumkapı, with its many taverns, bars and fish restaurants, is another attractive
district. People have been meeting for years at Çicek Pasajı in the district of
Beyoğlu for snacks and seafood specialties. Also in the area near Çiçek Pasajı
is the narrow Nevizade Street, which is the best place in İstanbul for eating
Turkish specialties and drinking rakı, the special Turkish drink.
On the Bosphorus, Ortaköy is the best place for nightlife in İstanbul, with its
nightclubs, jazz clubs, line seafood restaurants and bars.
At Eminönü do not miss the opportunity of seeing the fishermen dressed in
traditional Ottoman dollies and their Ottoman-style boats on which you may board
to sample their delicious fried fish.
You may also want to visit Tatilya Cumhuriyeti, a large amusement park in
Beylikdüzü past Haramidere on the road to the Atatürk International Airport.
DON'T LEAVE WITHOUT
- Seeing two of the master pieces of religious art of Istanbul, Süleymaniye
Mosque and Sultanahmet Mosque,
- Visiting Hagia Sophia and Museum,
- Visiting Topkapı Palace, Dolmabahçe Palace and Rumeli Hisarı,
- Having a ship voyage at Bosporus and Islands,
- Watching Istanbul panorama from Galata Tower and Pierre Loti,
- Following art and cultural activities,
- Being curious and seeing entertainment life,
- Visiting Ortaköy bazaar,
- Having a tour via phaeton in Büyükada,
- Eating fish in Bosporus, Kumkapı and çiçek bazaar, yogurt in Kanlıca, and
profiterole in Beyoğlu,
- Buying carpet, jewelry, leather clothes in Kapalıçarşı, and Turkish delight,
baklava, pastırma and deserts in Mısır Bazaar,
- Shopping in Beyoğlu and all mega shopping centers.
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